Thunderbird Garden

In my experience, a garden consists of dirt into which  plants are planted along with some decorative features and probably a few pieces of furniture, at least a chair or bench from which to relax and enjoy the garden. Many gardens I have known have had a rock or two placed strategically for interest. The garden at Thunderbird Lodge near Incline Village, Nevada has changed my experience.  Thunderbird's garden is completely stone with a few plants strategically placed.

Boulders are the "bones" of the garden rather than trees as is usually the case.  Stones have been laid for structure and transportation while a few trees and shrubs have been allowed to grow in the small spaces between boulders.   

The non profit organization responsible for preservation of Thunderbird Lodge has planted a small lawn on the lake side of the lodge.  Our wonderful guide, Tim explained that the lawn is important to events held at the lodge such as weddings.  These events are important for financial support of the ongoing expense of keeping the lodge maintained.

To learn more about the work of the Thunderbird Lodge Preservation Society and learn more about the lodge, click on this link:  THUNDERBIRD LODGE

George Whittell  had Thunderbird Lodge built in the 1930's by architect Frederic DeLongchamps. Whittell was a bit paraonoid and used architectural features such as this stone pagoda to hide listening devices so that he could hear his guests' private conversations. He also had small one way mirrors placed so that he could see his guests without them seeing him.

If guests knew of this lack of privacy, it didn't seem to stop them from enjoying Whittell's hospitality.  From across the lake at the Cal Neva Hotel the rich and famous could check out the lights at Thunderbird Lodge to see if a party was happening.  If the appropriately colored light was lit, they would speed across the lake to be part of the party.  

George Whittell was famous for his parties. While the lack of guest rooms meant that revelers returned across the lake to sleep, while they were there, they thoroughly enjoyed Whittell's hospitality during their stay, frolicking in the now dry waterfalls (above) that ran into the estate's lagoon . . .

or walking along the dragon path, curving around the lake side of the lodge like a dragon's tail. . .

or having one of many drinks while sitting in the stone gazebo, enjoy the view of the lake.

For guests hardy enough for the many steep steps, walkways around the lodge provided interest . . .

winding around the lodge, in front of the lake or against the boulder strewn hill.

Flagstone paths lead to several patio areas where servants were always ready to ready to offer food or drink if needed. The few plants surrounding the lodge were meticulously kept providing little flashes of color in the stone beds.

The stone garden of Thunderbird Lodge were a perfect accent to the larger-than-life setting of the surrounding Seirra Nevada Mountains encircling Lake Tahoe and rising high above the lodge. Dark green pines and firs needed nothing to increase their beauty but the paths, patios and gazebos of the Lodge were a perfect place to enjoy the natural beauty all about the estate.

After a full day and evening of drinking, swimming and general playing it must have been nice to sit back and enjoy the lake with sparkling diamonds shimmering across its blue surface as the sun gently sank below the distant mountains.

Many thanks to Tim and the Thunderbird Lodge Preservation Society for making our tour possible. We couldn't have had a better guide.

Thunderbird Lodge

The thirties were dynamic. Our culture was changing as people began to travel more. The movies made celebrities and millionaires over night. The wealthy were playing and the newspapers were telling us all about it. Lake Tahoe was already a vacation spot for west coast tourists  when, in 1926 the Cal Neva Hotel was built on the Nevada side of the California-Nevada state line. In 1936, Nevada legalized gambling making the Cal Neva a hot spot for partying.  This was the same year that George Whittell began building Thunderbird Lodge on the eastern shore of Lake Tahoe.

Whittell originally planned to develop the 40,000 acres, but as he grew to love the beauty of the area and even more to love his privacy, he decided too keep all the land for himself. 

It was in a small cove, part of his 24 miles of Tahoe shoreline that Whittell chose to build his home, using stone masons from among the local Washoe Indian tribe located nearby.  

He used a master metal worker to design and craft all the metalwork of the lodge. 

This man showed himself to be an artist in the work he built for Thunderbird Lodge, from designs along the outside of each building to fireplace screens, each piece is unique

This fireplace screen is located in the opium den built off one of the lodge's stone tunnels.

(Be sure to click on it to enlarge the photo.)

Speaking of tunnels, George Whittell loved his tunnels.  A very private man, Whittell was also probably paranoid.  He had cameras mounted everywhere on his estate as well as listening devices hidden in many yard features.  He had a hidden passage way into a secret sleeping loft and tunnels under the house to take him to his boat or to what was called the card house, a separate stone building built for the many card games that took place at Thunderbird Lodge and lasted throughout the night.

These tunnels were dug then faced with stone, including high arched roofs.

Like the walls and roof, the floor of each tunnel was stone laid smooth.  Because we had a private tour, without a time limit, our group was allowed into each of the tunnels including their steep stairways and a couple leaking roofs.

We climbed down to the opium den then up a couple stories into the card house, quickly retreating back into the tunnel before the regular tour group entered house by way of the front door.

Our tunnel tour ended up in the boat house, home of The




Thunderbird, Whittell's boat which he has especially made, used a few times, became bored with it and stored it.  The luxurious wooden boat is installed with airplane engines, and steering on both sides of the boat so that Whittell, who was left-handed could steer the boat if he desired or could let the boat's captain take over.

The wooden hull and chrome  fixtures were polished to a mirrored shine. The Thunderbird was beautiful. a piece of art  equipped with super engines.

In order to go for a ride in this boat, be prepared to become a major donor to the non-profit organization that oversees the lodge.

Once Thunderbird Lodge was built, it became a central place for the party crowd who would boat over from the Cal Neva Hotel, drink, play cards and cavort with show girls then head back across the water to wherever they were staying for the night. Very few guests ever stayed overnight at the lodge for Whittell had only no real guest rooms. The only extra rooms were for the lodge's staff.  

At one time, as a young man, George Whittell had run away from his privileged life to work in a circus.  There he grew to love the animals.  As an
adult, he acquired a pet elephant and a young lion cub. Many times George and the then full grown male lion would drive around  Reno or San Francisco while the lion stuck his head out the window to catch the wind, his full mane blowing in the breeze.

The estate had a special building to house his exotic pets.

Many famous people spent time at the Thunderbird Lodge, including Frank Sinatra, who, at one time was an owner of the Cal Neva Hotel. Other visitors were Sammy Davis Junior and his family, Howard Hughes and many actors and actresses of the time.

The rich and famous ate and drank in the great hall. . .

swam in the cove . . .

Or visited outdoors along the dragon path or in a stone gazebo overlooking the lake.

Wherever they were, they probably had a good time, then said good-bye to their host and headed for home before morning.

As did we.

 

Along with our wonderful and knowledgeable tour guide, Tim, we loaded into our cars and said good-bye to the beautiful understated but luxurious stone Thunderbird Lodge.

       (Thanks, Mike)